Submariner

The Submariner is Rolex's divers' watch family, introduced in 1953. It is the most-recognised tool watch in the world and the prototypical luxury sports watch.

Generations

• 1953-1959: early references 6204, 6205, 6536. No crown guards, smaller cases.
• 1959-1989: references 5510, 5512, 5513, 1680. Crown guards introduced; date function appears (1680).
• 1988-2010: 16800, 16610. Modern proportions, sapphire crystal, unidirectional rotating bezel.
• 2010-2020: 116610LN (no date 114060). Maxi-case, ceramic Cerachrom bezel.
• 2020-present: 126610LN (date) and 124060 (no date). 41 mm cases (up from 40 mm), updated bracelet, calibres 3235 and 3230.

Variants

• No date (124060, 14060M, 5513): clean dial, traditional configuration.
• Date (126610LN, 16610, 1680): cyclops magnifier over date window.
• Two-tone Submariner (Rolesor): steel and yellow gold combinations, e.g. 126613LB.
• Submariner LV "Hulk" (116610LV, 126610LV): green bezel and dial (2010-2020) or green bezel and black dial (2020-present, nicknamed "Starbucks").
• Submariner Date "Smurf" (116619LB): white gold, blue dial and bezel.

Vintage market

Vintage Submariners are heavily collected. Specific dial configurations command extreme premiums:

• Meters-first dials (early 5513, depth listed in metres before feet). Pre-1970s convention.
• "Big Crown" 5512 and 5513 with the prominent oversize crown.
• MilSub 5513 / 5517 military-issued, with sword hands and fixed bars.
• "COMEX" dials, supplied to COMEX divers.

Modern price range

Steel current Submariners retail in the €9-13K range. Secondary market premiums vary by reference, generally trading at retail to 1.5x retail for non-discontinued pieces. Discontinued "Hulk" and "Smurf" pieces trade at multiples.

Related: rolex, oyster-perpetual, daytona.