The vocabulary of the trade.
Plain-language definitions of the terms that come up when you buy, sell, invoice and report on watches. Tax concepts (Differenzbesteuerung, ZUGFeRD), case anatomy (chronograph, GMT bezel), brand collections, and the dealer shorthand that runs every conversation.
140 terms and growing.
Definitions, examples, and cross-links.
Each entry starts with a one-line definition that fits in a tax advisor's email or a buyer's question. Then the longer explanation goes into the parts that actually matter: how the calculation works, where it applies, what it looks like on an invoice, the common mistakes that catch new dealers.
Terms cross-link to related entries (a § 25a margin scheme references the ZUGFeRD invoice it sits inside; a GMT bezel references the Oyster Perpetual case it usually sits on) so you can follow a thread until the concept holds together. Where it helps, terms link out to the full journal article that goes deeper.
The glossary is editorial reference, not legal advice. We update entries when the law or the market changes, and stamp each page with its revision date.
- Aftermarket parts
Components not made by or supplied by the watch's manufacturer. Customisation through aftermarket parts typically destroys most of a watch's resale value because authentication and warranty depend on factory-originality.
- Frankenwatch
A watch assembled from parts originating in different watches of the same or related references, often sold as an original example. The most pervasive authenticity risk in vintage trading.
- Patina
Visible ageing of a watch's dial, lume, hands, or other materials, acquired through years of light, moisture, and oxidation exposure. Often desirable in vintage trading when the ageing is even and authentic.
- Polished
A watch case or bracelet that has been mechanically polished, removing surface metal to eliminate scratches but also softening the original factory edges and proportions. Routine for modern services, value-destroying for vintage.
- Replica
A counterfeit watch manufactured to imitate a branded original. Replicas range from crude visual approximations to high-quality "super clones" that copy case dimensions, dial layout, and movement architecture closely enough to deceive non-specialists.
- Service dial
A replacement dial supplied by the manufacturer during a service, when the original dial was too damaged to keep. Reduces value versus an original dial, often substantially for vintage references.
- Unpolished
A watch whose case and bracelet have never been mechanically polished since leaving the factory. The original sharp edges, facets, and engravings remain. The premium tier for vintage collectors.
- A. Lange & Söhne
German luxury watchmaker founded in 1845 in Glashütte, Saxony. Refounded in 1990 after East German nationalisation. Owned by Richemont since 2000. Known for hand-engraved balance cocks, three-quarter plate movements, and the asymmetric Lange 1.
- A. Lange & Söhne Datograph
A. Lange & Söhne's flagship chronograph, introduced in 1999. Generally regarded as the finest manually-wound chronograph movement in modern series production for its column-wheel, lateral clutch, and flyback function combined with exemplary hand-finishing.
- A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1
A. Lange & Söhne's flagship reference, introduced in 1994 as the brand's relaunch piece. Features an asymmetric off-centre dial, oversized date inspired by Dresden's Semperoper clock, power reserve indicator, and a small seconds sub-dial. A modern Saxon design classic.
- Aquanaut
Patek Philippe's sports-rubber-strap watch family, launched in 1997 as a more contemporary, accessible companion to the Nautilus. Recognised by the embossed "Tropical" dial and integrated composite strap.
- Audemars Piguet
Swiss luxury watchmaker founded in 1875 in Le Brassus, Vallée de Joux. One of the three "holy trinity" houses (Patek, Vacheron, AP). Best known for the Royal Oak collection that defines modern sports-luxury watchmaking.
- Breitling
Swiss watch manufacturer founded in 1884 in Saint-Imier. Best known for aviation chronographs including the Navitimer, with its rotating slide-rule bezel for navigational calculations. Owned by CVC Capital Partners since 2017, repositioned upmarket under CEO Georges Kern.
- Cartier
French jeweller and watchmaker founded by Louis-François Cartier in 1847 in Paris. Acquired by the Joseph Kanoui-led Cartier Monde consortium in 1972 and consolidated under the Richemont group (founded 1988). Best known for shaped cases (rectangular Tank, polygonal Santos), Roman numerals, and dress-watch heritage.
- Cartier Santos
Cartier's pioneering pilot's watch, designed in 1904 for Brazilian aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont. Often credited as the first dedicated wristwatch for men. Defined by its square case with exposed screws and integrated bracelet design.
- Cartier Tank
Cartier's iconic rectangular dress watch, designed by Louis Cartier in 1917 and inspired by the geometry of the Renault FT tank. One of the most recognisable watch designs in history; continuously produced for over a century with multiple sub-variants.
- Datejust
Rolex's foundational dress watch with date function, introduced in 1945 for the brand's 40th anniversary. The first wristwatch with an automatically-changing date display.
- Day-Date
Rolex's flagship dress watch, introduced in 1956 as the first wristwatch to spell out the day of the week in full alongside the date. Produced exclusively in precious metals (gold or platinum), traditionally on the President bracelet.
- Daytona
Rolex's chronograph, introduced in 1963 and named after the Daytona International Speedway. The most coveted Rolex production chronograph and one of the most-traded watches in the secondary market.
- GMT-Master
Rolex's pilot and dual-time-zone watch family, introduced in 1955 with the launch of Pan Am transatlantic jet service. Modern GMT-Master II references include the "Pepsi" 126710BLRO, "Batman" 126710BLNR, and "Sprite" 126720VTNR.
- Grand Seiko
Japanese luxury watch brand established as a Seiko sub-line in 1960 and operated as an independent brand since 2017. Known for its Spring Drive movement, Zaratsu-polished cases, and "nature of time" dial textures. A serious Swiss-watch alternative for collectors prioritising mechanical content over brand prestige.
- Hublot
Swiss watch manufacturer founded in 1980 by Carlo Crocco. Known for its "Art of Fusion" philosophy combining unusual materials (ceramic, sapphire, ceramic-tantalum), oversized cases, and high-volume marketing. Owned by LVMH since 2008. Polarising brand with strong celebrity tie-ins and a hot/not market cycle.
- IWC
International Watch Company, Swiss watchmaker founded by American engineer Florentine Ariosto Jones in 1868 in Schaffhausen. Owned by Richemont since 2000. Known for pilot watches (Big Pilot, Pilot's Watches), Portuguese collection, and tool-watch heritage.
- Jaeger-LeCoultre
Swiss manufacture founded in 1833 in Le Sentier, Vallée de Joux. One of the most complete in-house manufacturers in Swiss watchmaking, historically supplying movements to Audemars Piguet, Patek Philippe, IWC, and Vacheron Constantin. Owned by Richemont since 2000.
- Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso
JLC's iconic Art Deco rectangular watch with a swivelling case, designed in 1931 for British polo players in colonial India. The reversible design originally protected the crystal from polo impacts; today the second face is used for engravings, second dials, or additional complications.
- Nautilus
Patek Philippe's sports-luxury watch family, designed by Gérald Genta in 1976. Reference 5711/1A was the most-recognised Patek of the modern era and the most-traded watch in the secondary market through 2021-2022.
- Omega
Swiss watchmaker founded by Louis Brandt in 1848 in La Chaux-de-Fonds. Part of the Swatch Group since 1985. Best known for the Speedmaster (first watch worn on the Moon, 1969) and Seamaster (official James Bond watch since 1995).
- Oyster Perpetual
Rolex's foundational watch family name combining the Oyster waterproof case (1926) with the Perpetual self-winding rotor movement (1931). Used as both a model name and an architecture designator across the modern Rolex catalogue.
- Panerai
Italian watchmaker founded in 1860 in Florence, originally supplying instruments to the Italian Royal Navy. Modern Panerai (since 1993 commercial launch) is defined by oversized cushion cases, sandwich-style luminous dials, and the locking-crown protector. Owned by Richemont since 1997.
- Patek Philippe
Swiss luxury watchmaker founded in Geneva in 1839 by Antoni Patek and François Czapek (later joined by Jean Adrien Philippe). Family-owned (Stern family) and produces approximately 60,000 watches per year.
- Patek Philippe Calatrava
Patek Philippe's foundational dress-watch line, in continuous production since 1932. Defines the company's "round, clean, time-only" aesthetic and serves as the reference point for round Swiss dress watches industry-wide.
- Rolex
Swiss watchmaker founded by Hans Wilsdorf and Alfred Davis in 1905 (London), incorporated as Montres Rolex SA in Geneva in 1920. The largest single-brand Swiss luxury watch manufacturer by production, and the most-traded brand on the secondary market.
- Rolex Explorer & Explorer II
Rolex's adventure-oriented sport watch families. The Explorer is the simpler three-hand reference launched after the 1953 Everest expedition; the Explorer II adds a 24-hour hand and fixed bezel, originally aimed at speleologists and polar explorers.
- Rolex Sea-Dweller
Rolex's professional saturation-diver watch, introduced in 1967 and developed in partnership with COMEX divers. Water resistance to 1,220 meters in current production; distinguished from the Submariner by greater depth rating, helium escape valve, and (historically) absence of a cyclops lens.
- Rolex Sky-Dweller
Rolex's most complicated production watch, introduced in 2012. Combines an annual calendar, a second time zone display via off-centre 24-hour disc, and a unique fluted rotatable bezel (Ring Command) for setting functions. 42 mm case across all variants.
- Rolex Yacht-Master
Rolex's nautical-themed sports watch family, introduced in 1992. Distinguished from the Submariner by its bidirectional rotating bezel, brighter dial-bezel palettes, and (on most modern variants) precious-metal or two-tone case construction.
- Royal Oak
Audemars Piguet's sports-luxury watch family, designed by Gérald Genta and launched in 1972. The first luxury steel sports watch, the model that created an entire watch category.
- Speedmaster
Omega's chronograph family, introduced in 1957. The Speedmaster Professional (calibre 321 then 861/1861, now 3861) is the watch worn on every NASA crewed mission to the Moon since Apollo 11 in 1969.
- Submariner
Rolex's divers' watch family, introduced in 1953. The most-recognised tool watch in the world and the prototypical luxury sports watch.
- TAG Heuer
Swiss watch manufacturer with roots dating to 1860 (Heuer founded by Edouard Heuer). Renowned for motorsport-themed chronographs including the Carrera, Monaco, and Autavia. Acquired by Techniques d'Avant Garde (TAG) in 1985 and by LVMH in 1999. Entry-luxury Swiss positioning.
- Tudor
Swiss watchmaker founded by Rolex founder Hans Wilsdorf in 1926 as an accessible-price sister brand to Rolex. Rebranded and refocused in 2012 with the Black Bay line, transforming Tudor's market perception.
- Vacheron Constantin
Swiss watchmaker founded in Geneva in 1755 by Jean-Marc Vacheron, the oldest continuously-operating watchmaker in the world. One of the three "holy trinity" houses alongside Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet.
- Zenith
Swiss watch manufacturer founded in 1865 in Le Locle. Best known for the El Primero, one of the first automatic chronograph movements (1969) and still in production. Vertically integrated manufacture producing in-house movements at all price tiers. Owned by LVMH since 1999.
- Bill of sale (Kaufvertrag)
The legal document recording the transfer of a watch from seller to buyer. Includes parties, watch identification, price, and date. Required for tax records and dispute resolution; also forms part of provenance for the next owner.
- Extract from the Archives
An official document issued by Patek Philippe from its factory archives, certifying the original production date, reference, and first sale of a specific watch by serial number. The strongest provenance document any watch manufacturer issues today.
- Provenance
The documented chain of ownership and condition for a specific watch. Strong provenance reduces authenticity risk and increases value, particularly for vintage and rare references.
- Service history
A documented record of past services performed on a watch, including dates, service centres, parts replaced, and any restoration work. A positive value driver for modern watches, a complicating factor for vintage.
- Warranty card (Garantiekarte)
The manufacturer's document recording reference number, serial number, dealer name, and date of original sale. The single most important provenance document for modern watches.
- Authorized Dealer (AD / Konzessionär)
A retailer contractually accredited by a manufacturer to sell its watches at the recommended retail price. ADs receive allocation, factory training, and warranty-service rights in exchange for adhering to brand pricing and presentation standards.
- Discontinued
A reference that the manufacturer has stopped producing. Discontinuation usually lifts the reference's secondary-market price because supply becomes fixed while demand may persist or grow.
- Grey market
The market for new watches sold outside the manufacturer's authorised dealer network, typically at prices above retail. Distinguished from the secondary market by the watches being new and from the black market by the goods being legitimately sourced.
- Holding cost
The cost a dealer incurs while inventory remains unsold. Includes the opportunity cost of capital, insurance, storage, and the price-decline risk of the watch. A core metric in inventory pricing decisions.
- Hype watch
A reference whose secondary-market price has decoupled from its retail price because of intense cultural demand. Hype watches trade well above retail, often with multi-year cycles of appreciation and correction.
- Margin (Marge)
The difference between a watch's sale price and its acquisition cost, expressed in absolute terms (€2,500 margin) or as a percentage (12 percent margin). The single most important profitability metric in dealer operations.
- Premium
The amount that a watch's secondary-market price exceeds its retail (RRP) price. Expressed in absolute terms (€2,000 premium) or as a multiple (1.4x retail). Indicates demand exceeding manufacturer supply.
- Retail price (UVP / MSRP)
The manufacturer's recommended retail price at which authorised dealers are expected to sell new watches. Acts as the anchor against which secondary-market premiums or discounts are measured.
- Secondary market
The market for watches that have already had at least one owner, as opposed to the primary market where authorised dealers sell new watches at the manufacturer's recommended price.
- Dubai Watch Week
Biennial watch fair held in Dubai in November of odd-numbered years. Organised by Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons, the largest GCC luxury watch retailer. Significant brand presentations, conferences, and dealer events targeting the Middle East collector base.
- Geneva Watch Days
An annual independent watch event held in Geneva in late August, founded in 2020 by a group of brands as a flexible alternative to traditional trade fairs. Combines brand presentations, retail boutique events, and collector gatherings.
- Only Watch
Biennial charity auction held in Geneva since 2005, raising funds for Duchenne muscular dystrophy research. Each participating brand donates a unique piece (a "pièce unique") created specifically for the auction. The most prestigious one-off watch event in the industry.
- Watches and Wonders
The largest annual Swiss watch trade fair, held in Geneva each spring. Sets the year's release cycle and shapes secondary-market dynamics for the months that follow.
- Auction house
A specialised platform that auctions watches in curated sales, typically at the high-value and rare end of the market. Major houses include Phillips, Christie's, Sotheby's, and Bonhams.
- Bob's Watches
US-based Rolex specialist dealer, founded in 2010 and headquartered in Huntington Beach, California. One of the largest single-brand-focused Rolex pre-owned and certified-pre-owned dealers in the US market, with significant international shipping volume.
- Bring a Watch (BAW)
Online auction platform specialised in watches, modelled after Bring a Trailer's automotive auction format. Time-limited auctions with seller-led storytelling, community discussion threads, and platform-mediated payment. Active US-focused platform for mid-tier pre-owned watches.
- Catawiki
Dutch online auction platform with a major watch category. Specialises in timed-online auctions of single-owner and dealer-consigned watches in the €500 to €50,000 range. Provides expert-validated listings and built-in escrow.
- Christie's Watches
The watch department of Christie's, the long-established global auction house. Operates major sales in Geneva, New York, Hong Kong, and Dubai. Historically the leading watch auction venue before Phillips; remains a top-three watch auction house globally.
- Chrono24
The largest global online marketplace for watches, headquartered in Karlsruhe, Germany. Used by both private sellers and professional dealers as the main online price-discovery and listing platform.
- Hodinkee Shop
The retail and pre-owned arm of Hodinkee, the watch media and editorial platform. Sells new authorised-dealer watches, vintage pieces, accessories, and Hodinkee-branded watches and straps. Editorial-led commerce model that influences mainstream collector taste.
- Phillips Watches
The most influential watch auction house since the early 2010s. Geneva-headquartered department of Phillips, the global auction firm. Sets price records for vintage Rolex, Patek Philippe, and modern independent watchmakers.
- Sotheby's Watches
The watch department of Sotheby's, the global auction house founded in 1744. Operates major watch sales in Geneva, New York, Hong Kong, and online. Strong in important Patek Philippe and Rolex consignments; traditionally third among the major watch auction houses behind Phillips and Christie's.
- WatchCharts
A price-tracking platform for watches, providing real-time and historical price data for thousands of references aggregated from major secondary-market sources. Used by dealers and collectors to track price trends and benchmark listings.
- COSC
The Contrôle officiel suisse des chronomètres, the Swiss official chronometer certification institute. Tests movement accuracy to ISO 3159 standard and issues "Chronometer" certifications used as a quality marker on dial text.
- Demagnetization (Entmagnetisierung)
A service procedure that removes residual magnetic charge from a mechanical watch movement. Magnetised movements run several minutes per day fast. The fix is fast and inexpensive but often misdiagnosed as "broken watch".
- Independent watchmaker (Unabhängiger Uhrmacher)
A trained watchmaker operating outside the manufacturer's service network. Services watches across multiple brands; cost and turnaround typically better than manufacturer service, but originality outcomes vary by skill.
- Manufacturer service (Manufaktur-Service)
Servicing performed by the watch's manufacturer or its authorised service centre. The most expensive but most originality-preserving service path; carries a brand warranty on the service work and uses OEM parts exclusively.
- Master Chronometer (METAS)
A certification developed by Omega and the Swiss federal metrology institute METAS in 2015. Tests cased-up watches across eight criteria including 15,000-gauss magnetic resistance, more demanding than COSC alone.
- Pressure test (Drucktest)
A laboratory procedure that verifies a watch case's water-tight seal against its rated depth specification. Dry-air or wet pressurisation methods exist. Mandatory step after any case opening and a standard intake check on pre-owned acquisitions.
- Regulation (Regulierung)
The adjustment of a mechanical watch's rate to bring it within specification. Performed during or after a service by changing the effective length of the hairspring. A core competence of watchmakers; visible as the dealer's after-service quality signal.
- Water resistance (Wasserdichtigkeit)
A watch's rated ability to withstand water pressure, expressed in meters or bar. Pressure ratings are laboratory values and do not directly correspond to depths a wearer can safely use the watch at; the gap matters in dealer-to-customer communication.
- Carnet ATA
An international customs document that permits the temporary import of goods into a country without paying duty or VAT, on the condition that the goods are re-exported within a defined period. Used by watch dealers attending trade shows and exhibitions in non-EU territories.
- Customs (Zoll)
The state authority that controls cross-border goods movement and collects import duties and import VAT. Critical at every shipment between the EU and any non-EU country.
- DDP vs DAP
Two delivery terms from the Incoterms framework that define which party pays import duty and import VAT on cross-border watch shipments. DDP (Delivered Duty Paid) shifts duties to the seller; DAP (Delivered At Place) leaves them with the buyer.
- Drittland (Non-EU territory)
A territory outside the EU customs and VAT area. Shipments to a Drittland are zero-VAT exports for the German seller and trigger import duty plus import VAT on arrival in the destination country.
- EORI number
A unique identifier assigned by EU customs authorities to economic operators conducting cross-border trade. Required for any commercial import or export between the EU and non-EU countries. German EORI numbers start with "DE" followed by 15 digits.
- Escrow (Treuhand)
A payment arrangement where a neutral third party holds the buyer's funds until both buyer and seller fulfil their obligations. Standard mechanism for high-value cross-border and platform-mediated watch transactions.
- Insured shipping (Versicherter Versand)
A shipping service with declared value, transit insurance, signature on delivery, and documented chain of custody. The minimum standard for any watch shipment between dealers, customers, or service centres.
- Tracking
The carrier's electronic record of a shipment's location and milestone events from pickup through delivery. Required for proof of dispatch, dispute resolution, and tax-relevant export proof on cross-border watch shipments.
- Ankaufsrechnung
The purchase invoice a German dealer creates when buying a watch from a private seller. Anchors the watch's tax scheme (most often Differenzbesteuerung) and serves as the legal source document for the transaction.
- Ausfuhrlieferung (Export delivery)
A VAT-exempt sale of goods from Germany to a buyer outside the EU. The seller invoices net of German VAT; export documentation is required as proof. Applies to private and B2B customers in non-EU countries.
- Betriebsprüfung (Tax audit)
A scheduled or anlassbezogene tax audit by the German tax authority. Reviews 3 to 4 years of records against GoBD, VAT, and income-tax requirements. Standard finding categories for watch dealers and how to handle them.
- DATEV
German cooperative providing accounting software (DATEV Kanzlei-Rechnungswesen, DATEV Mittelstand) used by the majority of German tax advisors. The DATEV CSV format (Buchungsstapel) is the standard import format for monthly bookkeeping data.
- Differenzbesteuerung
German margin VAT scheme under § 25a UStG that taxes only the dealer's gross margin instead of the full sale price. Used when reselling goods bought from non-VAT sellers.
- E-Rechnung (E-Invoice)
A structured electronic invoice in a machine-readable format (XML or hybrid PDF+XML). Mandatory for German B2B transactions from 1 January 2025 under the Wachstumschancengesetz.
- Geldwäschegesetz (GwG)
The German Anti-Money-Laundering Act. Imposes identification, record-keeping, and reporting obligations on watch dealers above defined cash and value thresholds. Compliance is enforced by Land-level regulators and the BaFin.
- GoBD
The German tax authority's principles for keeping books, records, and documents in electronic form. Defines what bookkeeping software must do, how long invoices are kept, and what proof of integrity the tax office expects.
- Gutschrift (Credit note)
A document with two distinct meanings in German tax law: a reversal of an earlier invoice, or a "self-billing" invoice where the buyer issues the invoice on behalf of the seller. Often confused in casual usage.
- ICP (Ideal Customer Profile)
A data-driven description of the customer types most likely to buy from your shop, derived from your actual sales history. Used to target sourcing, communication, and marketplace listings.
- Innergemeinschaftliche Lieferung (Intra-community supply)
A VAT-exempt cross-border B2B sale of goods within the EU. The seller invoices net of VAT; the buyer self-assesses VAT in their home country via reverse charge. Requires valid VAT IDs and proof of cross-border transport.
- Kassenbuch (Cash book)
A daily record of all cash inflows and outflows in a German business, required when the dealer accepts cash. Subject to strict GoBD and Kassensicherungsverordnung rules.
- Kleinunternehmer
German small-business VAT exemption under § 19 UStG. Businesses below a turnover threshold do not charge VAT, do not file VAT returns, and cannot deduct input VAT.
- Reverse Charge (§ 13b UStG)
German VAT mechanism shifting the obligation to declare and pay VAT from the seller to the buyer in specific cross-border or sector-specific B2B transactions.
- Steuerberater (Tax advisor)
A licensed German tax advisor authorised to represent businesses and individuals before tax authorities. For watch dealers, typically prepares the annual tax filings, advises on tax-scheme decisions, and represents during a Betriebsprüfung.
- Umsatzsteuer-Voranmeldung (VAT pre-declaration)
The periodic VAT return filed with the German tax authority via ELSTER. Reports output VAT collected, input VAT paid, and the resulting payment or refund. Filed monthly or quarterly depending on prior-year VAT load.
- XRechnung
The German public-administration standard for electronic invoices. Pure XML format based on EU norm EN 16931. Required for invoicing public-sector buyers and accepted as one of two valid German E-Rechnung formats.
- ZUGFeRD
Hybrid electronic invoice format combining a PDF for humans with embedded XML for accounting systems. Standard for German B2B e-invoicing.
- Box and papers (B&P)
A pre-owned watch sold with its original box and warranty card. The minimum documentation tier above "watch only" and the baseline most secondary-market dealers expect to see.
- Consignment (Kommission)
A sales arrangement in which the owner of a watch entrusts it to a dealer for sale, the dealer holds and markets the piece without buying it, and the owner is paid out of the sale proceeds (minus the dealer's commission).
- Flipping
The practice of buying a watch with the intent to resell quickly at a profit, usually within weeks of the original purchase. Most often applied to allocations of hard-to-get references from authorised dealers.
- Full set
A pre-owned watch listed with its original box, warranty card, and all accessories that shipped from the manufacturer (links, anchor, hangtags, manual). The strongest condition tier in secondary-market trading.
- LNIB (Like New In Box)
A condition tier for pre-owned watches that have been worn very lightly or briefly, show no visible wear under normal inspection, and come with full original packaging.
- NOS (New Old Stock)
An older reference that was never sold, never worn, never serviced, and has remained in its original condition since leaving the factory. Often still wearing its protective stickers.
- Pre-owned
A watch that has had at least one previous owner. The umbrella term for the secondary market, covering everything from one-day-old "unworn" pieces to fifty-year-old vintage references.
- Single watch
A pre-owned watch sold without its original box and warranty card. The lowest documentation tier, also called "watch only" or "head only".
- Trade-in (Inzahlungnahme)
A sales transaction in which a customer hands over an owned watch as part-payment toward another watch purchased from the same dealer. The dealer credits the trade-in value and the customer pays the difference.
- Unworn / Stickered
A watch that has never been worn, often still wearing its factory protective stickers on case back, bracelet, and clasp. The condition tier above LNIB and the standard for "as new" claims.
- WTB (Want to Buy)
A buyer-side marketplace post indicating active interest in acquiring a specific reference, often with a target budget. The counterpart to WTS (Want to Sell).
- WTS (Want to Sell)
A seller-side marketplace post offering a specific watch for sale, with reference, condition, price, and contact terms. The counterpart to WTB (Want to Buy).
- Balance wheel (Unruh)
The oscillating weighted wheel in a mechanical watch movement that, together with the hairspring, regulates the rate of timekeeping. Oscillates at typically 21,600 to 36,000 vibrations per hour. Visible through the case back on movements with display backs.
- Caliber (Kaliber)
The specific movement model inside a watch, identified by a manufacturer reference number. Caliber identification establishes movement type (automatic, manual, quartz), complications, and is a critical authentication and originality data point.
- Cerachrom
Rolex's proprietary ceramic bezel insert material, introduced in 2005. Scratch-resistant and colour-stable, replacing the aluminium inserts used on earlier sports references.
- Chronograph
A watch with an integrated stopwatch function. Sub-dials track elapsed seconds, minutes and sometimes hours; pushers control start, stop and reset.
- Crown (Krone)
The knurled button on the side of a watch case used to wind the movement and set the time. Modern dive and sport watches use screw-down crowns for water resistance; vintage and dress watches typically use push-down crowns.
- Crystal (Glas)
The transparent disc that covers a watch's dial. Made from acrylic (plexiglass), mineral glass, or sapphire — each with different scratch resistance, impact resistance, and value implications.
- Cyclops lens (Zyklopenglas)
The small magnifying lens on a watch crystal positioned over the date window. Pioneered by Rolex in the 1950s and now distinctive of Rolex date references. Magnifies the date display roughly 2.5x for easier reading.
- Escapement (Hemmung)
The component of a mechanical watch movement that transfers energy from the mainspring to the balance wheel in regulated impulses, controlling timekeeping accuracy. The lever escapement is standard; the co-axial escapement is Omega's modern alternative.
- Flyback chronograph
A chronograph variant where pressing the reset pusher while the chronograph is running stops, resets, and immediately restarts the chronograph in a single action. Designed for sequential timing where stopping is impractical.
- GMT bezel
A 24-hour rotating bezel that, with a 24-hour GMT hand, lets the wearer track a second time zone (and a third when rotated).
- Hairspring (Spiralfeder)
The spiral spring attached to the balance wheel that provides the restoring force for the balance's oscillation. Material and geometry directly determine timekeeping accuracy and resistance to temperature, magnetism, and shock.
- Helium escape valve (Heliumventil)
A one-way pressure-relief valve in a professional dive watch that releases helium gas accumulated inside the case during saturation diving. Located at 9 o'clock on most dive watches that have one. Essential only for professional saturation divers; ornamental on most consumer dive watches.
- Jewels (Lagersteine)
Synthetic ruby or sapphire bearings inserted into a mechanical watch movement at points of friction and pivot rotation. Reduce wear, friction, and maintenance needs. Jewel count (17, 21, 31, etc.) is sometimes printed on the dial or movement.
- Jubilee bracelet
Rolex's five-piece-link bracelet, introduced in 1945 for the brand's 40th anniversary and the launch of the Datejust. Characterised by smaller alternating polished centre links and brushed outer links.
- Lume (Leuchtmasse)
The light-emitting material applied to a watch's dial markers and hands for low-light visibility. Tritium dominated until the late 1990s; modern watches use Super-LumiNova. Lume ageing is a key originality signal for vintage trading.
- Mainspring (Zugfeder)
The coiled spring inside the barrel of a mechanical watch movement that stores the energy used to drive the gear train. Power-reserve duration depends on the mainspring's length, width, and material; service-wear of the mainspring is one of the most common service-replacement items.
- Moonphase
A complication that displays the current phase of the moon on the dial, through a crescent-shaped window with rotating moon disc.
- Oyster bracelet
Rolex's three-piece-link sports bracelet. Robust, simple, and the standard fit on every Rolex sports model. Polished centre links and brushed outer links on most variants.
- Perpetual calendar
A watch complication that displays the date and accounts for all calendar irregularities automatically. A properly-set perpetual calendar requires no manual correction until the year 2100.
- Rattrapante
A split-seconds chronograph with two superimposed seconds hands. The second hand can be stopped to record an intermediate time while the first continues, then synchronised back.
- Tachymetre
A scale on a watch bezel or dial that, used with a chronograph, calculates average speed over a known distance.
- Tourbillon
A complication invented by Abraham-Louis Breguet in 1795 that mounts the escapement and balance wheel in a rotating cage, averaging out positional errors caused by gravity.
- Watch hands (Zeiger)
The pointers on a watch dial that indicate hours, minutes, seconds, and additional functions. Hand shapes (Mercedes, sword, dauphine, snowflake, baton) are part of brand and reference identity and a key authentication checkpoint.
Scope, voice, translations.
How does the glossary differ from the journal?
The journal carries opinion and analysis (essays on running a trading business). The glossary is reference: short, structured definitions of terms that come up repeatedly. Articles can be opinionated. Glossary entries are not. Both cross-link to each other where it helps.How often do you add new terms?
On a rolling basis. The first wave covers the highest-frequency vocabulary in watch trading. Subsequent terms come from real dealer questions and the gaps we notice in our own work.Can I suggest a term?
Yes. Write to info@chronodesk.com with the term you would like defined. We prioritise terms that come up in real dealer conversations over textbook vocabulary.Is the glossary legal or tax advice?
No. Glossary entries are editorial reference. They describe how the concept works in practice but do not constitute legal, tax, or financial advice. Always confirm specific situations with your tax advisor or lawyer.How are terms translated?
Slugs are shared across languages, but the body content is written natively per language. The English term page lives at /glossary/<slug> and the German equivalent at /de/glossary/<slug>. Until the German translation exists, the German URL returns a "not yet translated" card with a link to the English version.Why are some terms not yet in German?
Translation lags initial publication. We write each term in English first, then translate the high-traffic ones into German on a rolling basis.
A workspace built on these concepts.
ChronoDesk handles Differenzbesteuerung, emits ZUGFeRD-compliant invoices, tracks references and dial variants, and reports in the same vocabulary you trade in.